Just Andy Blog » Current Trip

Finding Solace

Andy Johnson III — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 07:15:05 +0000

Informed by a mere paragraph in Lonely Planet and a quick glimpse at their website, I set out to find the Solace Ministries Guesthouse in Kigali, Rwanda. The vague map in my travel guide pointed in the right direction without actually pinpointing the location. Passing through multiple neighborhoods, making several phone calls, and asking anyone he could find, my moto-taxi gradually narrowed down the spot until we had found the place. Introducing myself to Denise, the manager of the guesthouse, I mentioned that I sometimes photograph and write about vital causes that I find in East Africa. She then took me to the office of the founder and director of the ministry, John Gakwandi. Listening to what must have sounded like a bizarre story of how I found my way to his organization, John welcomed me and introduced me to their work.

When I interviewed John two days later, I learned that it all began when he accepted a job working with people who suffered tremendous loss during the Rwandan genocide. The stories that he heard every day broke his heart and many of these meetings ended in tears. Wondering how to help so many hurting people, he sensed God directing him through Isaiah 40:1 to “comfort my people.” But how could he provide comfort to people who had lost not just everything they had but everyone that they loved? The material possessions would have been easy to restore but what do you do for a widow who has lost both her husband and children? Or what would you say to a child who is the only remaining member of his or her extended family? Pondering such things, John remembered that God “…comforts us in all our troubles, so that we can comfort those in any trouble with the comfort we ourselves have received from God” (2 Cor. 1:4). Hopeful that the comfort he had received might help bring healing to others, John launched Solace Ministries in 1995 to comfort the widows and orphans of the genocide that took over 1 million lives.

The people that came to Solace understandably did so in the midst of great pain. They discovered that gathering together those who were hurting enabled them to share their stories with each other and to find comfort in this new community. As survivors wept with each other they found that they were not alone. This prompted Solace to form local communities across Rwanda to serve as family for those who had lost their loved ones. These communities care for one another, help to raise the orphaned children, and make sure that each member has enough food and means. Led by women widowed during the genocide who have found inner healing, the communities truly become a source of comfort and healing.

My room at the Solace Ministries Guesthouse was quite comfortable and had a wonderful view.

In addition to forming these communities, Solace also provides counseling and trauma healing, helps to educate orphans either through sponsorship or educational programs at their base in Kigali, encourages forgiveness through Jesus Christ, teaches vocational skills to help survivors make progress, and provides anti-retroviral medication and community home-based care for the many women who contracted AIDS while being raped during the genocide. According to information at the Kigali Memorial Center, more than 500,000 women were raped during the genocide or in the refugee camps that followed, and often times it was by men who were known to be HIV positive. Solace is providing a vital service to these women in a part of the world where proper medication and health care has been sparse. One of the ways they fund this project is by running a guesthouse at their center in Kigali. I was grateful for a chance to spend the night there knowing that the money went toward such an important cause.

I could go on and on about all the Solace Ministries does, but like John told me, the real story is what is happening in peoples’ lives. I will focus on several of the stories that I encountered in my next post. It is inspiring to see how this organization has provided solace for so many hurting survivors. Click here to read more about Solace Ministries.

Denise manages the Solace Ministries Guesthouse, raising funds for this vital organization.

East Africa’s Finest City

Andy Johnson III — Sun, 20 Sep 2009 09:33:32 +0000

Kigali has a fresh feeling to it. There is a chill breeze that carries minimal smog. Colors are vibrant and unhidden by pollution. Built on rolling hills, Kigali seems to naturally connect urban with rural. It is as though the cityscape is nestled into the countryside. The rise and fall of the local terrain means that in many parts of the city you get a fantastic view of the surrounding area.

My moto-taxi driver in Kigali.

At first you almost forget that Rwanda is in East Africa. The place is too clean and the roads too smooth. Unlike the surrounding region, Rwanda actively guards against pollution. The moto-taxi drivers, as boda bodas are called here, all wear helmets and carry an extra one that their rider is required to wear. I had to check and then double-check to confirm that cars actually drive on the right side of the road here. The people are beautiful and have a distinctive look from what I have seen throughout the rest of East Africa. Perhaps it is just the areas of Kigali that I have been passing through but the people seem quite modern and disinterested in the presence of foreigners. The dress here is Westernized like normal but more current than elsewhere. Increasing prices, new high rise buildings, and signs of rapid development all suggest that Rwanda’s, or at least Kigali’s, budding economy may be moving toward affluence in the years to come. I can see why people are referring to Rwanda as the prime example of African progress.

Two things that we can hope and pray for in Rwanda are first, that the development that has benefitted the lives of those who are better off in Kigali will reach the poor around the country and improve their situations as well. Secondly, that Rwanda will overcome the tribal conflicts that have plagued its past so that all of the progress of the last 15 years will not be lost again to the problems of the past. Kigali may well be East Africa’s finest city and from the signs of things this place is going to keep on getting better.

Hotel Rwanda

Andy Johnson III — Sun, 20 Sep 2009 06:03:26 +0000

Here I am at the Hotel des Mille Collines, sipping a cup of tea and pondering the tragic events that unfolded here only 15 years ago. Amidst chirping birds, laughing people, quality food and the luxurious atmosphere of this place, it is hard to imagine that hundreds of Rwandans once hid here to escape the genocide of 1994 that claimed more than one million lives in one hundred days.

As depicted in the movie Hotel Rwanda, Paul Rusesabagina became the provisional hotel manager of the Mille Collines at when those above him evacuated the country at the onset of the crisis. Opening the hotel doors to refugees fleeing for their lives, Paul managed to hold off the militias seeking to kill them by paying them with the money and alcohol that he had left at his disposal. Paul saved lives through his heroic efforts and finally he and his family were evacuated in time to spare their own lives as well.

Just prior to coming here I visited the Kigali Memorial Center. Nothing could have prepared me for what I saw there. I’ve read about the genocide before but to see the story unfold in such a detailed and graphical way is heartbreaking. I don’t see how one could pass through this memorial without weeping. The tragic loss of lives and the barbaric efforts of those who so brutally took them are unimaginable. Pictures of children who were later hacked to death, the stories of survivors who lost their entire extended families, and quotes from the perpetrators and the rest of the world that stood by, all need to sink in. We desperately need to realize the gravity of the plight of suffering people around the world. One of the things that pained me the most was learning that there were at least eight different massacres of Tutsis in the three years leading up to the genocide. Continuous appeals for help from people within Rwanda who saw the trouble at hand were ignored by the world until it was too late.

Frodouald Karuhije saved the lives of 14 Tutsis by protecting them for over a month in a trench that he dug on his property.

To keep this tragedy from causing despair there are heroic stories to consider as well. Besides Paul here at the Mille Collines, there were other Rwandans who risked their lives to save others. Frodouald Karuhije initially dug a trench on his property to hide himself. When he discovered though that it was his Tutsi neighbors who were in imminent danger, he decided to use the trench to hide them instead. “He put planks on top, then green banana leaves, and on top of the leaves he piled earth, and then planted sweet potatoes all along the top of the trench” (Thomas Ngirabakunzi). He saved the lives of 14 Tutsis while they were in his care for over a month. His sister cooked for them and his 12 year old daughter took food to the refugees by hiding it in a dustbin.

Damas Gisimba received around 400 orphans, refugees, and employees into his orphanage at Nyamirambo. Also rescuing the living who were thrown in mass graves, this Rwandan hero managed with help to evacuate the vast majority of these people to a safe place. In appreciation for his kindness a Rwandan said, “I can’t find the exact words to express how I feel about Gisimba’s actions. He protected more than 400 human lives. A love sacrifices itself in that way is beyond my comprehension… I don’t know if you’d call it an act of heroism or an act of love.”

In the face of such tragedy I am grieved, in the light of such heroism, I am inspired. It is time to awaken from apathy, to respond to the great needs in front of us that left to themselves will only grow worse. Ignorance is no longer an excuse. The world is flat and smaller than it has ever been, meaning that modern communications and the internet in particular, have made it possible to know what is happening around the world in real time. May we learn from Hotel Rwanda not to run from or ignore impending disaster, but step instead in front of its path and protect those who cannot protect themselves.

The Kigali Memorial Center overlooking the city.

Visiting Rwanda

Andy Johnson III — Sat, 19 Sep 2009 23:01:04 +0000

I have long desired to visit Rwanda. It wasn’t clear if this trip would afford the proper circumstances for a visit or if it would be too far out of the way. Kigali, the capital city of Rwanda, requires a ten hour bus ride from Kampala and since there isn’t much public transport back to Kenya through Tanzania around the South of Lake Victoria, you have to bus back to Kampala again before heading East into Kenya. When I decided to go gorilla trekking, however, I realized that I would be taking a bus most of the way to Kigali by reaching my stop in Southwest Uganda.

The next question was, what would I do there? Besides adding to my country count and experiencing a new place, would there be some redeeming value to the additional time and expenses that I would incur? While reading through my Lonely planet travel guide, I noticed with surprise that under their accommodations for Kigali they featured a guesthouse run by a Christian ministry. Solace Ministries, it said, used the funds raised by the guesthouse to purchase the ARVs, AIDS medication, for women who had been raped during the genocide. Realizing that this was exactly the kind of ministry that I have been looking for to support in East Africa, it was settled and I had to go.

My initial foray into Kigali was quite challenging. Finding my way around with boda boda drivers, or moto taxis as they are called in Rwanda, was more difficult than expected because most of them spoke very little English. Since Rwanda was colonized by the Belgians, it is far more common for Rwandans to speak French than English. This is likely to change in the future, however, because there is a growing push to learn English instead. I explained to one moto-taxi driver that I wanted to go to Union Trade Centre. When he said that he didn’t know where it was, I found this unbelievable because it is the major shopping mall in Kigali. We began to drive in the general direction and when I saw the place in the distance I pointed it out to him. When he stopped he made a special point of correcting me so that I would know for next time that this place was called UTC. I guess the idea that UTC might stand for something hadn’t occurred to him.

It didn’t help that Lonely Planet’s most recent information was already incorrect on several key issues. The guesthouse where I planned to stay was twice the price. All of the landline phone numbers listed no longer work because apparently there are some major changes to telecommunications underway. The recommended restaurant that my moto-taxi driver couldn’t find to save his life, actually moved recently. When I was tired of driving in circles, I just paid him and walked off to find it myself. A Rwandan offered to walk me there. I told him that he could come along if he wanted but I was going to pay him. He said that all he wanted was a soda. When I ordered a lunch buffet at plan B, a place called “Downtown, he was right there behind me grabbing a plate as well. Finding life far more expensive in Rwanda than I had anticipated, I headed over to the Banque di Kigali to get a cash advance. The ATMs in the city do not currently process foreign check cards. Despite the rocky start, however, my short stay in Rwanda was to prove very rewarding.

One of Life’s Great Experiences

Andy Johnson III — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 22:57:38 +0000

There are rare moments in life where we have to remind ourselves to pause and take it all in. To realize that what is happening right now is unlikely to ever be repeated. When the extraordinary overpowers the ordinary and leaves us in awe. This is how I felt while trekking through the tropical rain forest of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park en route to visit a group of endangered mountain gorillas. The 13 mountain gorillas of the Bitukura family are among the 710 or so left in the world, all of which reside in either Bwindi or the Virunga Volcanoe range in the region bordering Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Referred to by Lonely Planet as “One of life’s great experiences”, seeing a family of mountain gorillas close range in their own domain is truly awe-inspiring.

Only eight visitors per day are granted permits to track each family of gorillas. Since they are often sold out far in advance, I was thrilled to pick up one of the coveted permits at the Uganda Wildlife Authority only six days ago. This usually happens only when there are cancellations so it is far better to book in advance. Joining our guide near the park gate at Ruhija we learned the rules of the trekking experience, including helpful hints like stand still if they charge and do not run away or they may pick you and carry you off into the forest. As funny as this may sound, mountain gorillas are much larger than imagined but fortunately docile and vegetarian.

While explaining the cases in which the permits might be refunded, our guide mentioned that if anyone was too weak to go on trekking, he would send them back with escorts. “Then you can go back to the US or Italy and make some joggings and come back and we will take you trekking.” In other words, make sure you are in good enough shape to trek gorillas because you will not be refunded if you overlooked this minor detail.

There is a reason that they call Bwindi an “Impenetrable Forest.” This dense tropical rainforest underbrush makes for slick footing and I’ve never been more grateful for a walking stick. Four Spaniards, two Aussies, one Irish lass, and an American, all followed our guides with great anticipation along the path being created as we trekked. Several trekkers from the Wildlife Authority had gone on before us, returning to the spot where the gorillas were the day before and then tracking them to their new location to guide us. Although it can sometimes take all day, we encountered the gorillas within an hour. Laying down our bags and walking sticks so that we were only carrying our cameras, we slowly inched forward into the world of the mountain gorilla.

A female gorilla and her infant resting on the trunk of a fallen tree in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Southern Uganda.

The first gorilla we discovered was a silverback named Rukumu, leaning against a tree and munching on branches and leaves. The fur on a mail gorilla’s back turns silver at around age 12. Rukume occasionally glanced over at us but seemed unconcerned with our presence and went on eating. Across the way, two females, Betina and Kumuga, and and Kumuga’s infant Kudogo, rested on the leaning trunk of a large tree that had fallen over but remained propped up by other trees. The three of them positioned along the tree trunk made for beautiful photos. When the branches started rustling above, we looked up to see Obia, a curious blackback (young male) hurrying down the tree trunk before disappearing into the underbrush. This would be far from the last that we would see of him.

Less than twenty feet away we encountered 30-year old Karamuzi, a bulging silverback and the former group leader in his younger years. The back of his head still bears the scars from the days in which he fought to protect his family. Twakire, a young female, picked through his fur and the two of them relaxing together seemed quite close. Karamuzi moved a few times but not far, sticking around long enough to afford us the best photo opportunities of the day. From a distance we saw a mother dart by with her infant on her back. Another silverback walked through with only his back showing. While climbing to find another view, Obia, the previously mentioned curious young male, suddenly came charging through brush only a few feet away from then bumped against a large vine and turned back. It all happened so quickly that there was no time for photos or to even consider just how far he intended to come. We watched as he spun his way through several 360º turns back into the brush.

Ndahura, the current group leader, suddenly and followed closely by a female darted away quickly before we had much of a chance to see him. Trekking further we found our curious charging friend, Obia, taking a rest to eat some lunch. Finally still, we were able to observe him for awhile and capture some great photos before being told by the guide that our one hour with the gorillas was up and it was time to start trekking out. What an amazing one hour with the gorillas!

The trek back was significantly harder than the way in. Walking down the mountainside to get to the gorillas obviously meant that to get out would mean that we would have to go back up. I enjoyed trekking and didn’t feel too exhausted although given a chance I would probably pick up some hiking boots before taking my Nike running shoes into the Impenetrable Forest again. There would a few falls on my backside to teach me that lesson quite well. Back at the gate, the guide gave us all certificates to commemorate the event and we took a photo with this impromptu group with which we had shared this amazing experience. If you are ever in East Africa, I highly recommend setting aside the time and money for this once in a lifetime opportunity. Beyond the pictures, I only hope that I have truly taken this all in.

Taking photos in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Southern Uganda.

It’s Who You Know

Andy Johnson III — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 23:45:29 +0000

One thing I have learned about traveling here and this is perhaps the most important tip I could give to one interested in traveling at least this part of Africa, is that the old cliché is never truer than it is here that “it’s not what you know but who you know.” People are very helpful here about offering advice but the conflicting information you’ll receive here is truly remarkable.

For instance, the other day I was talking to a tour operator who told me to take a particular bus. While on my way there I met another Ugandan friend who called his friend who works on these buses, only to find out that they don’t even travel to where I needed to go. So this new friend of a friend helped me to get to the right bus and through this round about process of “who you know” I managed to make it to my destination. The lesson from this is that Africa is a relational society and if you are going to make it here, you’ll need to be relational. Talk to and make friends with everybody you meet and in addition to the more enriching experience that results, they will help you find your way. This just might be one of the reasons I feel so at home in this place.

The Switzerland of Africa

Andy Johnson III — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 08:31:41 +0000

Passing beautiful people, exotic birds and breathtaking scenery we climbed. The familiar hum of the boda boda engine rose and fell with the alternately ascending then descending terrain. Each twist and turn of the road opened a window to yet another spectacular vista. This is the place known as the Switzerland of Africa, where the neatly manicured terraces connect vibrant greenery and sprawling villages.

The journey from Kabale to Ruhija took my breath away. I tried to take it all in since time constraints prevented me from taking too many photos. For those of you who know me well you know how hard it was to fly past such beautiful scenery, over one pothole and around another, without snapping pictures. I’m convinced that there couldn’t have been a better way for me to get to Ruhija than on the back of a motorcycle. The unhindered view enabled a constant visual feast.

When I first visited the Uganda Wildlife Authority they said that they had a gorilla trekking permit for me out of Buhoma. Since it is the main place that people go to see the gorillas, transport to Buhoma is much easier to secure. When I came back with cash the next day to buy my “reserved” permit, however, the lady who agreed to hold it for me was out of the office sick and everyone else said that there was only a pass for Ruhija. Since I was going to have to hire a private driver to Ruhija, a rural town that cannot be reached any other way, I was initially disappointed.

Then I met Allan. Among the many voices offering me a ride to my guest house in Kabale, it was Allan who won my business. Driving along on his boda boda, he then offered to drive me to Ruhija for a comparable price to the other local drivers. I initially hesitated because of my bags but when I learned that I could leave them at the guesthouse, I agreed to hire him. Along the way I asked if he had ever done this before and he said no. I don’t think anybody else is crazy enough to hire a ride on a small motorcycle meant for the road over 51 kilometers off-road.

I couldn’t be more happy with my decision because it was one of the most beautiful drives I have taken in my life. The mountainous area around Kabale is definitely the most scenic countryside I have encountered in Uganda. For someone who loves Switzerland, you know that it has to be a good thing that this area constantly brought the Swiss Alps to mind. Maybe it was partially the the power of suggestion but I’ll never forget my boda boda ride through the Switzerland of Africa.

Travel With a Cause

Andy Johnson III — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 08:10:58 +0000

The first half of my trip has drawn to a close. Having successfully completed both pastors’ conferences, my Bethel team has returned home and I am now on my own. From here the trip will be much more work because I will have to figure out every detail on my own. Having traveled here before is very helpful but also my love for adventure and enjoyment of spontaneous change help me to roll through life in East Africa. That’s not to say that I naively think everything will be easy. Plenty of things can and do go wrong but you take them as they come.

The second half of my trip will involve visiting some of the causes that I did photo and video work for last time I was in East Africa. I’m excited to review these projects and to look for ways to move forward with them. I also plan to add two more organizations to the Yadumu Project, one that raises funds to provide ARV’s to Rwandan women raped during the genocide and another that fights against malaria in Kenya.

Before I get back to work I’m taking a brief excursion to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park to see the mountain gorillas. I believe in travel with a cause. In other words, travel to serve a good cause but by all means spend a bit of your own money when in the area to take advantage of some of the unique opportunities that local tourism affords. So after rambling on about how wonderful this excursion will be, you’ll find me getting back to the work I came for shortly.

A Ride Through Gulu

Andy Johnson III — Wed, 02 Sep 2009 13:51:54 +0000

I recently rode a boda boda, Uganda’s common public transportation on the back of a motorcycle, across Gulu. Although it is the second largest city in the country, a ride through Gulu gives a good sense of what you encounter in Ugandan cities.

Overwhelmed But Encouraged

Andy Johnson III — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 21:32:16 +0000

I am encouraged tonight by II Kings 6:16 where we are reminded “Don’t be afraid…Those who are with us are more than those who are with them.” Here in Africa I am beginning to feel a little overwhelmed. The magnitude of the need here and the countless arms reaching for help make me wonder if anything I do here will ever matter. It is hard not to feel somewhat depressed by the violent oppression that so often ravages this continent. Yet, I am reminded by this passage that although I may be overwhelmed, I am not outnumbered.

Staring at the vast Syrian army, the man in this story also felt overwhelmed and that nothing he or anyone else could do would matter. When his spiritual eyes were opened, however, he saw that the power of God was greater than all of the violent oppression that the Syrians could inflict. I’m thankful for the reminder that God’s power is not only greater than my own weakness but also greater than all that oppresses East Africa. It is true that by myself I cannot change anything but I pray that God, through his power, might use me to help bring needed changed to this beautiful but needy part of the world.