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Spontaneity and the Merchant of Venice

Andy Johnson III — Thu, 08 Jul 2010 20:53:08 +0000

One of the things I love about travel is the increased openness I feel to see and respond to daily opportunities. Travel is an invitation to spontaneity. It is a chance to live how we would like to live if we didn’t feel too busy to do so. In this way it also reminds us to dust off the interests and passions that we have allowed to lay dormant and to live more fully by focusing again on what we love.

Pouring over lists of hostels last week my only concern was to find a place to stay somewhere in between Crater Lake and Lassen Volcanic National Park. Realizing that I would probably leave Crater Lake in the evening I thought it might be nice to have a place to crash after a few days of camping. I also love hostels and jump at opportunities to discover new ones. Finding a hostel in Ashland, Oregon looked perfect for my route.

Planning merely to pass through I discovered that I had stumbled across a gem of a town in Ashland. The hostel proved to be a warm and friendly place. It was an actual home right on Main Street with large common areas to relax and converse with other visitors. While talking with Eric and Roger, two road-tripers from Northern California, I learned that the Oregon Shakespeare Festival is not just an event as I had supposed, but that it is ongoing. Curious, I looked up the list of current plays and decided that the Merchant of Venice looked the most interesting. To my delight, it just so happened that this was to be the featured play the following evening.

Now I had a decision to make. Do I continue on with my plan to pass through to the next place or do I change everything to stop and live in the moment? The next morning I awoke still pondering this decision. Having been warned that I should get my ticket as soon as possible if I hoped to go, I decided that attending the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in a place that literally revolves around this attraction was a wonderful opportunity.

One of Ashland's local musicians dressed like a sprite and playing beautifully on various wind instruments.

Driving downtown to seek out tickets I felt like I had stepped into a village on the English countryside. Tudor styled homes and typical British names for businesses lined the streets. I learned from the friendly attendant that there were not any tickets left for the Merchant of Venice at the lower price. He asked if I was a member or new somebody from town who was so that I could get the tickets half-priced. Mentioning that I was in town for the day and did not know anyone, he said that he would check and see if he could use a local friend’s discount. He then offered me the lower price for a seat. I love it when spontaneity aligns with good fortune and things work out!

I spent the first part of the day cheering on Spain in their World Cup match versus Germany. Learning from Yelp about a local coffee shop that roasts its own coffee, I decided to check it out. I loved the place the moment I walked in the door. It is large and open with somewhat of a rustic feel. The most interesting looking menu item that I had never tried was called “siphon service.” It seemed the more adventurous path to try something new and I was not disappointed. The process of siphoning coffee is something that has to be seen to be understood. I have posted a link to a video of the process at www.justandyblog.com/2010/07/coffee-siphon-service/

Forewarned that I might want to prepare before watching the play, I purchased a summary and analysis of the Merchant of Venice and sat down in beautiful Lithia Park to read it. I also attended a brief lecture given as a preface to show on the festival’s campus. Feeling prepared to comprehend the show, I stepped outside and found a girl dressed as a sprite playing a variety of interesting looking wind instruments. Her music was mesmerizing and seemed quite fitting for the streets of Ashland.

Every evening at 7:15 there is a free outdoor event called The Green Show” and I attended for a musical journey through the history of blues. It was quite entertaining and drew a large crowd. At last the time had come for the play.

The Tudor-styled Elizabethan Stage at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival.

Finding my way to my seat on the upper level, I was immediately drawn in by the scene. Of Ashland’s three theatres, this play was held at the Elizabethan Stage, a large outdoor venue with a beautiful Tudor-styled set as its backdrop. The play was absolutely fabulous, professionally executed within a beautiful set. The acting was so well done that I leaned forward and felt like I was living part of the story, empathizing with Antonio, hoping the best for Bassanio and struggling to understand the cruelty of Shylock. The Oregon Shakespeare Festival provided an exceptional cultural experience.

It was a very satisfying day for a traveler. One that began with one plan and ended having followed another. I stumbled across a wonderful opportunity, gladly responded to it and experienced its rewards.

Noble Coffee Roasting is one of the finest coffee shops that I have ever visited.

Finding Solace

Andy Johnson III — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 07:15:05 +0000

Informed by a mere paragraph in Lonely Planet and a quick glimpse at their website, I set out to find the Solace Ministries Guesthouse in Kigali, Rwanda. The vague map in my travel guide pointed in the right direction without actually pinpointing the location. Passing through multiple neighborhoods, making several phone calls, and asking anyone he could find, my moto-taxi gradually narrowed down the spot until we had found the place. Introducing myself to Denise, the manager of the guesthouse, I mentioned that I sometimes photograph and write about vital causes that I find in East Africa. She then took me to the office of the founder and director of the ministry, John Gakwandi. Listening to what must have sounded like a bizarre story of how I found my way to his organization, John welcomed me and introduced me to their work.

When I interviewed John two days later, I learned that it all began when he accepted a job working with people who suffered tremendous loss during the Rwandan genocide. The stories that he heard every day broke his heart and many of these meetings ended in tears. Wondering how to help so many hurting people, he sensed God directing him through Isaiah 40:1 to “comfort my people.” But how could he provide comfort to people who had lost not just everything they had but everyone that they loved? The material possessions would have been easy to restore but what do you do for a widow who has lost both her husband and children? Or what would you say to a child who is the only remaining member of his or her extended family? Pondering such things, John remembered that God “…comforts us in all our troubles, so that we can comfort those in any trouble with the comfort we ourselves have received from God” (2 Cor. 1:4). Hopeful that the comfort he had received might help bring healing to others, John launched Solace Ministries in 1995 to comfort the widows and orphans of the genocide that took over 1 million lives.

The people that came to Solace understandably did so in the midst of great pain. They discovered that gathering together those who were hurting enabled them to share their stories with each other and to find comfort in this new community. As survivors wept with each other they found that they were not alone. This prompted Solace to form local communities across Rwanda to serve as family for those who had lost their loved ones. These communities care for one another, help to raise the orphaned children, and make sure that each member has enough food and means. Led by women widowed during the genocide who have found inner healing, the communities truly become a source of comfort and healing.

My room at the Solace Ministries Guesthouse was quite comfortable and had a wonderful view.

In addition to forming these communities, Solace also provides counseling and trauma healing, helps to educate orphans either through sponsorship or educational programs at their base in Kigali, encourages forgiveness through Jesus Christ, teaches vocational skills to help survivors make progress, and provides anti-retroviral medication and community home-based care for the many women who contracted AIDS while being raped during the genocide. According to information at the Kigali Memorial Center, more than 500,000 women were raped during the genocide or in the refugee camps that followed, and often times it was by men who were known to be HIV positive. Solace is providing a vital service to these women in a part of the world where proper medication and health care has been sparse. One of the ways they fund this project is by running a guesthouse at their center in Kigali. I was grateful for a chance to spend the night there knowing that the money went toward such an important cause.

I could go on and on about all the Solace Ministries does, but like John told me, the real story is what is happening in peoples’ lives. I will focus on several of the stories that I encountered in my next post. It is inspiring to see how this organization has provided solace for so many hurting survivors. Click here to read more about Solace Ministries.

Denise manages the Solace Ministries Guesthouse, raising funds for this vital organization.

Hotel Rwanda

Andy Johnson III — Sun, 20 Sep 2009 06:03:26 +0000

Here I am at the Hotel des Mille Collines, sipping a cup of tea and pondering the tragic events that unfolded here only 15 years ago. Amidst chirping birds, laughing people, quality food and the luxurious atmosphere of this place, it is hard to imagine that hundreds of Rwandans once hid here to escape the genocide of 1994 that claimed more than one million lives in one hundred days.

As depicted in the movie Hotel Rwanda, Paul Rusesabagina became the provisional hotel manager of the Mille Collines at when those above him evacuated the country at the onset of the crisis. Opening the hotel doors to refugees fleeing for their lives, Paul managed to hold off the militias seeking to kill them by paying them with the money and alcohol that he had left at his disposal. Paul saved lives through his heroic efforts and finally he and his family were evacuated in time to spare their own lives as well.

Just prior to coming here I visited the Kigali Memorial Center. Nothing could have prepared me for what I saw there. I’ve read about the genocide before but to see the story unfold in such a detailed and graphical way is heartbreaking. I don’t see how one could pass through this memorial without weeping. The tragic loss of lives and the barbaric efforts of those who so brutally took them are unimaginable. Pictures of children who were later hacked to death, the stories of survivors who lost their entire extended families, and quotes from the perpetrators and the rest of the world that stood by, all need to sink in. We desperately need to realize the gravity of the plight of suffering people around the world. One of the things that pained me the most was learning that there were at least eight different massacres of Tutsis in the three years leading up to the genocide. Continuous appeals for help from people within Rwanda who saw the trouble at hand were ignored by the world until it was too late.

Frodouald Karuhije saved the lives of 14 Tutsis by protecting them for over a month in a trench that he dug on his property.

To keep this tragedy from causing despair there are heroic stories to consider as well. Besides Paul here at the Mille Collines, there were other Rwandans who risked their lives to save others. Frodouald Karuhije initially dug a trench on his property to hide himself. When he discovered though that it was his Tutsi neighbors who were in imminent danger, he decided to use the trench to hide them instead. “He put planks on top, then green banana leaves, and on top of the leaves he piled earth, and then planted sweet potatoes all along the top of the trench” (Thomas Ngirabakunzi). He saved the lives of 14 Tutsis while they were in his care for over a month. His sister cooked for them and his 12 year old daughter took food to the refugees by hiding it in a dustbin.

Damas Gisimba received around 400 orphans, refugees, and employees into his orphanage at Nyamirambo. Also rescuing the living who were thrown in mass graves, this Rwandan hero managed with help to evacuate the vast majority of these people to a safe place. In appreciation for his kindness a Rwandan said, “I can’t find the exact words to express how I feel about Gisimba’s actions. He protected more than 400 human lives. A love sacrifices itself in that way is beyond my comprehension… I don’t know if you’d call it an act of heroism or an act of love.”

In the face of such tragedy I am grieved, in the light of such heroism, I am inspired. It is time to awaken from apathy, to respond to the great needs in front of us that left to themselves will only grow worse. Ignorance is no longer an excuse. The world is flat and smaller than it has ever been, meaning that modern communications and the internet in particular, have made it possible to know what is happening around the world in real time. May we learn from Hotel Rwanda not to run from or ignore impending disaster, but step instead in front of its path and protect those who cannot protect themselves.

The Kigali Memorial Center overlooking the city.

One of Life’s Great Experiences

Andy Johnson III — Fri, 11 Sep 2009 22:57:38 +0000

There are rare moments in life where we have to remind ourselves to pause and take it all in. To realize that what is happening right now is unlikely to ever be repeated. When the extraordinary overpowers the ordinary and leaves us in awe. This is how I felt while trekking through the tropical rain forest of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park en route to visit a group of endangered mountain gorillas. The 13 mountain gorillas of the Bitukura family are among the 710 or so left in the world, all of which reside in either Bwindi or the Virunga Volcanoe range in the region bordering Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Referred to by Lonely Planet as “One of life’s great experiences”, seeing a family of mountain gorillas close range in their own domain is truly awe-inspiring.

Only eight visitors per day are granted permits to track each family of gorillas. Since they are often sold out far in advance, I was thrilled to pick up one of the coveted permits at the Uganda Wildlife Authority only six days ago. This usually happens only when there are cancellations so it is far better to book in advance. Joining our guide near the park gate at Ruhija we learned the rules of the trekking experience, including helpful hints like stand still if they charge and do not run away or they may pick you and carry you off into the forest. As funny as this may sound, mountain gorillas are much larger than imagined but fortunately docile and vegetarian.

While explaining the cases in which the permits might be refunded, our guide mentioned that if anyone was too weak to go on trekking, he would send them back with escorts. “Then you can go back to the US or Italy and make some joggings and come back and we will take you trekking.” In other words, make sure you are in good enough shape to trek gorillas because you will not be refunded if you overlooked this minor detail.

There is a reason that they call Bwindi an “Impenetrable Forest.” This dense tropical rainforest underbrush makes for slick footing and I’ve never been more grateful for a walking stick. Four Spaniards, two Aussies, one Irish lass, and an American, all followed our guides with great anticipation along the path being created as we trekked. Several trekkers from the Wildlife Authority had gone on before us, returning to the spot where the gorillas were the day before and then tracking them to their new location to guide us. Although it can sometimes take all day, we encountered the gorillas within an hour. Laying down our bags and walking sticks so that we were only carrying our cameras, we slowly inched forward into the world of the mountain gorilla.

A female gorilla and her infant resting on the trunk of a fallen tree in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Southern Uganda.

The first gorilla we discovered was a silverback named Rukumu, leaning against a tree and munching on branches and leaves. The fur on a mail gorilla’s back turns silver at around age 12. Rukume occasionally glanced over at us but seemed unconcerned with our presence and went on eating. Across the way, two females, Betina and Kumuga, and and Kumuga’s infant Kudogo, rested on the leaning trunk of a large tree that had fallen over but remained propped up by other trees. The three of them positioned along the tree trunk made for beautiful photos. When the branches started rustling above, we looked up to see Obia, a curious blackback (young male) hurrying down the tree trunk before disappearing into the underbrush. This would be far from the last that we would see of him.

Less than twenty feet away we encountered 30-year old Karamuzi, a bulging silverback and the former group leader in his younger years. The back of his head still bears the scars from the days in which he fought to protect his family. Twakire, a young female, picked through his fur and the two of them relaxing together seemed quite close. Karamuzi moved a few times but not far, sticking around long enough to afford us the best photo opportunities of the day. From a distance we saw a mother dart by with her infant on her back. Another silverback walked through with only his back showing. While climbing to find another view, Obia, the previously mentioned curious young male, suddenly came charging through brush only a few feet away from then bumped against a large vine and turned back. It all happened so quickly that there was no time for photos or to even consider just how far he intended to come. We watched as he spun his way through several 360º turns back into the brush.

Ndahura, the current group leader, suddenly and followed closely by a female darted away quickly before we had much of a chance to see him. Trekking further we found our curious charging friend, Obia, taking a rest to eat some lunch. Finally still, we were able to observe him for awhile and capture some great photos before being told by the guide that our one hour with the gorillas was up and it was time to start trekking out. What an amazing one hour with the gorillas!

The trek back was significantly harder than the way in. Walking down the mountainside to get to the gorillas obviously meant that to get out would mean that we would have to go back up. I enjoyed trekking and didn’t feel too exhausted although given a chance I would probably pick up some hiking boots before taking my Nike running shoes into the Impenetrable Forest again. There would a few falls on my backside to teach me that lesson quite well. Back at the gate, the guide gave us all certificates to commemorate the event and we took a photo with this impromptu group with which we had shared this amazing experience. If you are ever in East Africa, I highly recommend setting aside the time and money for this once in a lifetime opportunity. Beyond the pictures, I only hope that I have truly taken this all in.

Taking photos in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Southern Uganda.

The Switzerland of Africa

Andy Johnson III — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 08:31:41 +0000

Passing beautiful people, exotic birds and breathtaking scenery we climbed. The familiar hum of the boda boda engine rose and fell with the alternately ascending then descending terrain. Each twist and turn of the road opened a window to yet another spectacular vista. This is the place known as the Switzerland of Africa, where the neatly manicured terraces connect vibrant greenery and sprawling villages.

The journey from Kabale to Ruhija took my breath away. I tried to take it all in since time constraints prevented me from taking too many photos. For those of you who know me well you know how hard it was to fly past such beautiful scenery, over one pothole and around another, without snapping pictures. I’m convinced that there couldn’t have been a better way for me to get to Ruhija than on the back of a motorcycle. The unhindered view enabled a constant visual feast.

When I first visited the Uganda Wildlife Authority they said that they had a gorilla trekking permit for me out of Buhoma. Since it is the main place that people go to see the gorillas, transport to Buhoma is much easier to secure. When I came back with cash the next day to buy my “reserved” permit, however, the lady who agreed to hold it for me was out of the office sick and everyone else said that there was only a pass for Ruhija. Since I was going to have to hire a private driver to Ruhija, a rural town that cannot be reached any other way, I was initially disappointed.

Then I met Allan. Among the many voices offering me a ride to my guest house in Kabale, it was Allan who won my business. Driving along on his boda boda, he then offered to drive me to Ruhija for a comparable price to the other local drivers. I initially hesitated because of my bags but when I learned that I could leave them at the guesthouse, I agreed to hire him. Along the way I asked if he had ever done this before and he said no. I don’t think anybody else is crazy enough to hire a ride on a small motorcycle meant for the road over 51 kilometers off-road.

I couldn’t be more happy with my decision because it was one of the most beautiful drives I have taken in my life. The mountainous area around Kabale is definitely the most scenic countryside I have encountered in Uganda. For someone who loves Switzerland, you know that it has to be a good thing that this area constantly brought the Swiss Alps to mind. Maybe it was partially the the power of suggestion but I’ll never forget my boda boda ride through the Switzerland of Africa.